From heaven to hell and back again

10/29/11
It was about 40F when I finally decided to get up, and at that time James was already gone. It was only 7:40, but I guess James decided to get an early start on the day. I packed up my hammock in the cold and walked my bike over the beach. It was a clear beautiful morning and I spent a few minutes just meditating on the sea. Eventually I pushed my bike up the sandy hill to the highway where it seemed to be about ten degrees than where I had woken up. I guess I had slept in some sort of cold gulch. I pedaled into the town of Cambria and noticed that I had a text from James indicating that he was at the local coffee shop. I met him there, charged my phone, and picked up a coffee table biography of William Randolph Hearst.

We spent then next hour or two there, with me reading my book and James scouring WarmShowers.org for somebody to host us in San Luis Obispo. By the time I had finished the book I really wanted to visit Hearst Castle, but wasn't interested in backtracking at the moment. I suppose I'd have to return to the area someday. I also finished the biography feeling slightly connected to Hearst, as it seemed like he felt disillusioned with higher education. In response he ended up traveling a lot and enjoying his 20's, and didn't find his career until he was about 30 years old.

San Luis Obispo was our stoping point for the night, and it was only about 35 miles further than where we were. I think because of that we took our time. We stopped in Morro Bay to snack and enjoy the view. The alternate route we were on took us south to the town of Los Osos and then we headed east toward SLO. Our route got a little weird near Cuesta College, but we eventually found our way. We caught a headwind the last few miles before hitting SLO, which was unexpected but we powered through it.

It was about 3:30 when we arrived in San Luis Obispo, and we were both hungry. We stopped at shopping center that had a grocery store and a bicycle shop. I inquired about my clicking pedal, and they said it was probably worn out. It wasn't the type of place I would find new pedals for cheap, but directed me to the SLO Bicycle Coalition's Bike Kitchen, which would be open on Sunday. It's a place where people can go use the tools, sift through used gear, and get help with bicycle problems, all on donations. After getting our blood sugar back to normal we headed downtown to find some WiFi and check on our WarmShowers inquiries.

Kreuzberg, CA is the name of an awesome cafe in downtown SLO. The walls are covered in murals and art from local artists, portraits of great novelists, and the menu is literary themed as well with all the sandwiches being named after authors. I ordered a sandwich and James got a muffin. Soon we found out that nobody from WarmShowers could host us so we'd have to find an alternative. We called a local hostel which was full, but the woman on the phone invited us down to the hostel anyway because she thought we may be able to share a room with another cyclist that was staying there.

The Hostel Obispo is a nice place, and Elaine the owner is a wonderful woman. She found us a place to stay, but it would still cost us $20 a piece to stay there. I mentioned that I had heard something about a bike coop where 18 bicyclists shared a house together, and that I had heard they might at least have a yard for a to camp in. She knew exactly what I was talking about. The house is called 'The Establishment', and they throw an annual Halloween party which we were told was a pretty big deal. In fact, a few members of the staff were getting ready to head over there for the party, so Elaine introduced us and one of the girls walked us over to the Establishment to see if we could crash over there.

Things were hectic at the Establishment as the last minute preparations were being put together. They said that we were free to stay there, but that the party would be going all night and we might have a hard time finding a place amongst all the others that would be staying there. Either way we were invited to the party, but we'd have to come up with costumes and even if it took all night, at least we would have a place to sleep.

Back at the Hostel we told Elaine the good news, and she seemed genuinely happy for us. She even offered each of us a warm shower and a bag of random Halloween clothes that we were free to go through to find a costume, as well as pancakes in the morning. Elaine is truly awesome and very generous. I had a hard time finding anything in the costume bag, so after our showers we took a trip to get some face paint, and then Elaine supplied us with a place to get ready. I couldn't thank her enough.

I did a quick job painting my face like a day of the dead skull and James dressed up like a cyclist zombie. At the Establishment the party was in full force. The DJ's would be arriving shortly, and the place was already packed. A lot of work had gone into decorating the giant house, and it seemed as if no detail was spared. To get into the party you had to walk towards a bright light, down a dark tunnel to the pearly gated entrance. The gates led to a Dia de los Muertos themed back patio and the inside of the house was divided between heaven and hell, with the bathroom being the aptly named 'Purge-atory'. I had a great time and met a lot of awesome people, but by 1am I was getting tired and hungry.

James and I decided to walk downtown to get some food and our new friend from Trinidad, Katherine, decided to follow us too. Downtown SLO was crazy too, with just about everybody on the street in costume and having a good time. Enzo's East Coast Eatery seemed like the place to be, and although I was unimpressed with the pizza it seemed to be the only place open to eat.

We ate ice cream cones as we walked Katherine back to the hostel, then James and I went back to the party which was still going but had fizzled down a bit. We decided that we probably wouldn't get much sleep there, so we thanked the party hosts and grabbed our bikes and headed for the hills. We followed a trail we found in the South Hills just on the edge of town and found a secluded place to set up camp. By now it was about 2:30am and we were worn out from the day. I fell asleep quick and just hoped that nothing would disturb me in the middle of the night. It was a fun day, and I was thankful to meet Elaine and glad we happened to find ourselves in SLO for Halloween weekend.

Miles: 40 miles

RRD: An ice cream cone

-D

The amazing Central Coast

10/28/11
As soon as we left camp I was annoyed. My left pedal was clicking, something was rubbing on my back tire and my chain was creaking. Besides that I hadn't gotten a full night sleep since we were out so late the night before, and my mood was just generally poor. About two miles up the road James stopped to send off some extra weight he had been carrying and I stopped at the market next door to get a few snacks for the road and lube my chain. When it came time to get back on the bikes I was still feeling disconnected and had a hard time getting back on the bike. My rhythm still seemed to be off ever since San Francisco and I knew I had to do something to change it. I decided that I should listen to my iPod and pedal away the poison I was feeling.

For the next few hours James and I rode at our own individual paces, sometimes passing one another but mostly doing our own thing. Listening to my iPod on shuffle really helped keep my pace high. The route and day were both absolutely beautiful, and I felt so fortunate to be experiencing it all. This portion of the Central Coast had a lot of up and down, with a couple climbs that would reach around 1000ft elevation. I stopped to take pictures along the way and was really starting to enjoy the day, and felt as if I actually was pedaling the poison away.

At one point I was pretty far ahead of James, but only because there were so many great places for him to stop and take pictures. It was around that time when I came up on our slow and steady friend Austen again. There he was, trucking along. He had actually camped a few miles ahead of us the night before. That crazy guy gets a lot of night miles in. He was actually shooting for another 90+ mile day, as he was heading to Paso Robles to change course and go east. James soon caught up with us and we all rode together for a little longer. This would probably be the last part of the trip that we would ride together, unless we all happen to meet up in Flagstaff, AZ.

When James and I stopped to snack, Austen continued on and we didn't catch up with him again. After our 30 minute break I put my iPod back on and James shot ahead of me as his monstrous legs tend to allow him to do. There were a few more smaller climbs and then one big one with a false summit that drained my energy. It didn't hurt that the sun was beating down hard and the temperature had risen to 85F. At Ragged Point, which was a little more than 45 miles from our starting point, I stopped to eat something somewhat substantial, fill up on water and take a much needed rest. James was on the phone when I arrived, and had been waiting for me there for about 30minutes.

The sun was starting its descent, but I was glad to have made it so far, so early in the day. I consulted my phone and saw that San Simeon State Park was about 25 miles up the road and we both figured that would be a good spot to aim for. From then on we rode together, and I think we were both feeling a little fatigued from all the climbing of the the day. Luckily after Ragged Point it was downhill for a bit and then mostly flat. We were passing by Piedras Blancas Lighthouse when the sun finally set. It was an amazing sunset and we stopped several times to marvel in its splendor. It seemed as if every 10 pedal strokes I could look back and the sky was a different color. There was even a time when I looked across the horizon and the sky seemed to change from dark night to blue to fire red to orange and then it melt into the setting sun.

I noticed a bright light on the hill and wasn't sure what it was until we passed a sign pointing out that it was Hearst Castle. Even far away, from the highway at night it looked impressive. Not too far past "La Cuesta Encantada", the estate in which the Hearst Castle sits, was a beach full of burping seals. It was too dark to tell for sure, but I think they were Elephant Seals. I stopped for a bit to listen to their gurgling and grunting, but I could only barley make out their slug like shapes on the beach. From what I could hear, and see, there were a lot of them.

This last stretch of highway surprised us. As we pedaled on, we would pass through cool areas and warm areas. The warm pockets were very welcomed and the sudden change in temperature from time to time was interesting to experience. This was a good sign that we were getting farther south down the coast, and I was hoping that the warm night breeze was a sign of things to come.

At the park we were greeted by a ranger, who pointed us in the direction of the hiker/biker area. We stopped for warm showers (you gotta get them when you can) and then we cooked a pasta dinner. I was again able to set up my hammock and we went to bed at a decent hour. For the first time since San Francisco I felt as of I was back in the rhythm of the road. I had to to force myself into it a little, but it was worth it. It had been an amazing day, and this portion of the Central Coast was simply beautiful. It was yet another stretch of highway that I wouldn't mind riding over and over again.

Miles: 70 miles

RRD: a broken cell phone

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

A raft of otters, a circus of puffins, a fragrance of murre

10/27/11
Our plan for the day was to go to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, not only a place that brought us back to our childhoods, but also one of the best and most informational aquariums around. We were able to follow another designated bike path all the way into Monterey, and we stopped at a ritzy looking cafe located near the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. The hotel was stunning, and offered up the feel of a mediterranean villa. It seemed like the kind of place that I could get a room for one night that would easily cost more than my entire trip.

After spending a couple hours at the cafe, it was now past 10am and we the aquarium was open. On our way there we stopped by a grocery store and got some food. At the store we talked with a cyclist that worked for the aquarium, and he said if he didn't have someplace to be he would have gotten us in for free. It was a nice thought, but more of a tease than anything else. Another good thing about traveling with somebody is that it's easy to eat well, for cheap by making your own food. We spent $4 each and were able to make yummy pesto/cream cheese/turkey wraps with spring greens, tomato and onion...and ate 2 each. Although we were short on ride time, our appetites still didn't subside.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium is awesome, and I definitely find a lot of joy there. The sea otters are one of my favorite exhibits, but the million gallon tank is super impressive, and I can't help but love the sea horses, jellyfish, sharks, sea birds, and engaging in all the hands on exhibits where one can touch urchins, decorator crabs, sea cucumbers, starfish, kelp, and even sting rays. We ended up spending over 3.5 hours there (much more time than expected) and I walked away feeling a little more conscious about the fish I choose to eat. There is an app for smart phone users called 'Seafood Watch' that is put out by Monterey Bay Aquarium that I would recommend downloading if you're a seafood lover. I just the past 100 years we have depleted many of the the resources that the ocean provides, but by changing a few of our habits and making a few wiser decisions, the ocean will once again thrive.

James and I were both famished by the time we left the aquarium, so we stopped to eat again before hitting the road. It was getting late and we needed to continue south if we were going to make any miles. At the time I really didn't want to get back on my bike but knew that just a little pedaling would get me motivated. There was some beautiful scenery ahead of us. We followed the coast most of the way, rode down 17 Mile Drive among some incredible houses, hit pebble beach and then hit Scenic Road through Carmel. I guess that doesn't mean anything if you haven't ever been to the area, but it was gorgeous to say the least. At one pony I stopped to look at a flyer on a house that was for sale. The 6000sqft property a couple blocks off the beach was going for a steal at $8.2 million. I mean, it was nice, but I had a hard time contemplating first how much money that actually was, and second why anybody would pay that much for that property. There couldn't have been more than 1/3 acre of land, surrounded by neighbors, and the house itself didn't impress me much. The property taxes alone were probably more than what I'd pay for a place to live. Anyway, I guess for that price I can think of a lot of other things I'd rather do than live in Carmel. It really poses a big question about worth, wealth and values.

We stopped to watch a beautiful sunset at Carmel Beach, took some pictures and decided to keep going. I don't think either of us could live with only making it 20 miles for the day, plus Carmel didn't seem like a good place to try to find camp. On our way out of town we rode by a beautiful mission, and I kind of wished we would've been able to see it with more light. At the edge of town we stopped at another grocery store to get some more food before trekking toward Big Sur.

I'm glad James was there to help me keep motivated because when it really started to get dark I was looking for the nearest place to camp. The Cabrillo Highway was hilly in this section, but hills have become the norm and when it gets cold after dark they're actually somewhat welcomed. The road was windy, but traffic was light. I had a feeling that we were missing some awesome scenery, but the day had already been full of views so I wasn't too worried about it. At some point along the way a woman in a little pickup truck stopped to see if we wanted a ride. Her name was Haley, she was 6ft tall and blond and referred to herself as the Amazon from Apple Ridge. James' initial reaction was to deny the ride, but I figured that since this was the first ride I had been offered in over 1000 miles (oh yeah, I had passed the 1000 mile mark that day) I thought we should take her up on it.

Haley drove us into the town of Big Sur, where she had spent her whole life and was the third generation living on her family's land. Along te way we passed our tortoise like friend Austen, who was only a couple miles ahead of us. We were dropped off at a bar where they had just closed the kitchen, and we were directed down the road to the Fernwood Restaurant to eat. James and I split a massive order of nachos, which ended up being the cheapest way for us to eat there. We definitely weren't disappointed with our decision and not only enjoyed the meal, but walked away full. There was some local entertainment that we stuck around to watch and talked with a few people that were just hanging around the bar. The bartender directed us to a State Park with Hiker/Biker camping just down the road so we headed off down the way.

At camp we each decided to end our day with a warm shower, which made us realize all the more that laundry would need to be done soon. It was past midnight by the time we got our tents set up and fell asleep. I was happy to have found two trees to hang my hammock from, and once again we were sleeping among the redwoods.

Miles: 40

RRD: $8 million homes

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

Slow day, long ride

10/26/11
We awoke to a fog and moisture, but it was still a beautiful morning. We could still just make out the lighthouse as we packed up camp and hit the road. About 10 miles south of camp we stopped to snack. The fog was thinning out and some patches of blue were noticeable to the east. By the time we reached Davenport the fog had rolled away and the sun was shining proud.

In Davenport we found quite the gem, Whale City Bakery Bar & Grill. We stopped to get some coffee and use the WiFi. The pastries there looked and tasted amazing and over the next 4 hours we found that our appetite for them was insatiable. While we surfed the net and filling our bellies we also put our tents and sleeping bags out to dry. After spending way too much money on tasty baked goods, and spending way too much surfing the net we finally left around 2pm. Only about 17 miles from camp it didn't seem like we would be making it too far today.

Somewhere about 5 miles outside of Santa Cruz there was a designated bike trail that led us along the coast and straight into town. I couldn't believe how beautiful the coastline there was. Although I had grown up within an hour of Santa Cruz, I don't ever remember seeing this area the way that I was seeing now. It was just stunning. I loved the bike trail and just the overall vibe of the city was great. I felt that if I had to work the rest of my life just to pay off one of the $2 million houses with a view that we passed by, at least a town like Santa Cruz would make it a tolerable existence.

We took our time to enjoy Natural Bridges Stats Park and Lighthouse Field State Park and mainly just meditated on the view. As we got closer to the heart of the city we passed by a surf competition, and the city seemed to be getting better by the pedal stroke.

Once downtown I was getting hungry, and I also wanted to stop by a bike shop to get a new mirror. I headed toward the bike shop and while I was there I received a text from Austen, the kid I had met way back in Newport, OR. He too had just got into Santa Cruz so we made plans to meet up. James and I got some pizza while we waited for the bicycle tourist from Anchorage, AK.

James and I had spent several hours in Santa Cruz, longer than I expected, but I didn't see it as a waste. Although we had only come about 27 miles, Santa Cruz is a cool place. By the time we finally met up with Austen, the sun was threatening to dive into the ocean, and we had to decide whether or not to continue on. Austen offered us up some contacts that he had in Santa Cruz, including somebody that was out of town but would let us stay on his docked sailboat. The offer was enticing, but I think James and I both weren't ready to throw in the towel after less than 30 miles. Austen on the other hand was Travelling another 35 miles down to a town called Marina. I wasn't sure if I was up to going that far, but it would be good to ride together for a while.

The three of us hit the highway, which in Santa Cruz was feeling quite a bit like a freeway during rush hour. I couldn't help but think that there must be a better route, but with the three of us and our lights I figured we'd be alright. The three of us joked and shared adventures, and the next several miles went quick, despite the relentless traffic and the hills.

Sometime after the sun had set and about 50 cars had honked at us, somebody finally pulled over to tell us that we weren't supposed to be on that section of the highway. The guy was actually quite douchey in the way he told us, and although he didn't have very good advice on an alternate route I appreciated the information, regardless of the source. Crazy Austen didn't seem to care, and he was simply focused on the quickest route to his destination. I felt like trying to find the alternate route, which could be quite a ways off of the freeway. I think James had the same idea as I had, but realizing that Austen, whose lights were barely visible, was heading back to the freeway convinced me if all three of us stuck since our lighting would be impossible to ignore.

A couple more miles down the 1 we were pulled over by the highway patrol. We chatted with the officer about cycling and mountain biking, and he actually seemed more like a surfer dude than a cop. He ended up helping us find a decent alternate route, which he agreed was lacking in effective marking for cyclists. He also put the "protect" in "to serve and protect" as he drove slowly behind, escorting us to the next exit where we would get off.

As we rode along, I started to realize that Austen and his BOB trailer were more like the tortoise and James and I travelled more like the hare. Austen didn't ride very fast, which I imagine would be harder pulling a trailer, but he covered 75+ miles a day. He spends a lot of time in the saddle, but obviously covers a lot of ground as he was now about 4400 miles into his trip.

In Watsonville we stopped so Austen could fix a flat, and I fueled up for the rest of the ride. We actually got turned around and took a bit of a detour but soon got back on track. We did have to take highway 1 for a short while, but eventually ended up on access roads which led right into Marina. From there Austen split off to the place where he was staying and James and I headed in the direction of Monterey to find camp.

We ended up a few miles past Marina at Fort Ord Dunes. I was super pleased with the spot we found which looked over the entire Monterey Bay, with the lights of the city shimmering across the sea and the sound of the waves crashing on the shore below. This was one of the best spots I've camped on the whole trip. It had been a long day, with lots of ups and downs but I was happy with progress we made. I still didn't feel like I had gotten back into the rhythm of the road, but was happy to be cycling. I once again had to set my tent up on the ground, and use my bike to help support it, but I slept comfortably well in my bed of sand.

Miles: 65

RRD: A beach ball

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

Sleeping with the sea

10/25/11
We ended up not getting the early start which we had anticipated. I had more things to take care of in Redwood City than I had planned for, and James was also running late coming back from the East Bay. Eventually we decided that if he left by bike from the Millbrae BART station and I left from Redwood at the same time, we would meet in San Mateo where we could head to the coast from. After meeting, and then eating, and then getting some groceries we finally left at about 2:30pm.

After a few detours we finally ended up on highway 92 headed for Half Moon Bay. Before us lay the coastal mountain range that separated the sea from us. We must've been riding that route at rush hour because car traffic wouldn't let up. For the most part cars were understanding but once we got over the range, the shoulder started getting pretty bad. After a few cars passed by a little too close for comfort we kicked it up a notch so that we could get out of there and back to highway 1 as soon as possible.

Although there were some great places to stop and explore along the coast, like artichoke farms, pumpkin patches and corn mazes, we were trying to make up for lost time. It had been a nice day, and as the sun continued its descent our shadows were cast long across the highway and on the hills to our left.

By the time we reached Pescadero State Beach it was dark out and we started searching for shelter. I was also out of water and considered knocking on random house doors to try to find some. A rotating light coming trough the darkness indicated a lighthouse ahead which seemed like a good place to head for. Come to find out it was. At the Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel we were able to fill up on water, and although the hostel was a little out of our budget the girl behind the counter was very helpful in pointing us in the direction of some nearby places to camp.

Hardly a mile from the lighthouse we found a suitable spot to sleep. It was right on a cliff, with ocean waves crashing about 20ft below us. We were covered from the road by brush and a small mound, but there were no trees. James and I both set up our tents to hang off our bikes. It was a bit cold, and I feared that the morning would bring mist but I was certainly ready for sleep. With the lighthouse within view to our north, and the constant roar of the ocean droning out any other noise, I felt that we had chosen a spot wisely. I think we both fell asleep quickly and my mattress of ice plants proved to be a comfortable solution to sleeping on the ground.

Miles: 40

RRD: An unopened bag of chips and a insulated polar water bottle (both of which I picked up)

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

Three days off in the bay

10/22/11-10/24/11
When I arrived in the bay area I wasn't sure how long I'd be there. There was a chance I'd have work for a week and be able to save up some cash, but then that would mean I would be touring solo again because James would have to continue on his journey. The other option would be that I wouldn't have any work available and that any extra time spent in the area would drain my funds. I ended up spending three days in the bay area with 1 day of fun, 1 day of rest, and 1 day of work.

Saturday
James and I happened to make it for the weekend, and I knew of a band from Portland playing in San Francisco Saturday night. We started the day in Redwood City. My dad was gracious enough to host us for the night so we got a warm shower, a comfortable place to lay our head, and he even let us sleep in.

In the morning I felt odd...maybe a little claustrophobic. I think I had started to grow accustomed to waking up with fresh air, sunshine and the open road. It was an interesting feeling. After another warm shower I headed to my favorite coffee shop, The Backyard Coffee Co, in Redwood City. Down the street from the cafe is a laundromat, so I thought I'd make the best of my morning and do some laundry as well. Not long after James and I got there my fried Chris, the owner of the cafe, showed up and I was delighted to see her. I told her all about my trip and being the supportive friend, she said she wanted to help sponsor me. She ended up giving James and I both a donation, which I was extremely thankful for. I also should say that anybody who lives near Redwood City should definitely check out The Backyard Coffee Co. It's like the Cheers of cafes, it's got a great atmosphere and great coffee and staff...and everybody knows your name.

After our laundry was done and our caffeine ingested we took our now unloaded bikes on the Train and headed to SF. You couldn't ask for a more beautiful day in the city. 72F and clear skies. First we biked over the steep Potrero Hill into the Mission to meet some friends at The Revolution Cafe. The sidewalk in front of the cafe was covered with bikes, even a couple of touring setups. It seemed that without all our gear we just blended in as another SF cyclist.

When the visit with friends ended, James and I booked it across town to Golden Gate Park. We took a leisurely stroll throughout the whole park and arrived at Ocean Beach just in time for sunset. I tried to capture some good photos, but it never does it justice. From there we went back through the park and shot up Twin Peaks to take in the awesome cityscape at night. It was dark up there, and you could see from one end of the city to the next. Truly an amazing view.

Our night in San Francisco ended back in the Mission district. I was excited about seeing the extremely danceable Gypsy/Russian/Ukrainian sounds of Chervona, the band from Portland. The fun wouldn't start for another couple of hours, so we went and ate our weight in pizza. Back at Amnesia, where the band was playing, people had really begun to pack in. Chervona was once again great fun, and I definitely danced all the pizza off. Although, amidst all the fun James and I had forgone trying to catch the last train and would have to bike back to Redwood City.

After riding 20 miles just around the city, we were now faced with a 30 mile ride back to where we were saying. The ride back really wasn't bad. We left around 1:45am and made it back to Redwood around 4. We had also managed to find time on the way to stop and get doughnuts. My only complaint is that my bike commuter app thought that it would be a good idea to take us through the Bayview district of SF, a place notorious for crime. Ultimately we made it home safe, so no harm done but I'm starting not to trust the bike app anymore. In the end, we had a blast and I'm glad to have met James. I feel like we'll be friends for a while even after we head down different roads.

Sunday
Needless to say I slept in a little later than usual, having gotten home late, but I was excited to meet my stepmother for brunch. We met at The Franklin St Cafe, and I had a wonderfully big plate of food. Cycling everyday really makes me appreciate food on a whole new level, and it seems like I eat whatever and whenever I want. At brunch it was great to catch up with my stepmother, who I rarely get to see, and she also offered me a full day of work. I could definitely use some extra funds for my voyage, so I jumped at the opportunity.

The rest of the day was pretty lazy. I spent a long while at The Backyard Coffee Co, just working on my blog and doing some research on the rest of my trip. In the evening James and I rode to San Mateo so that I'd be closer to work in the morning. Along the way we got a bit lost, thanks to that danged bike commuter app, but shared a lot of laughs in the process. At one point we even stopped to do some pull-ups and push-ups at a little park gym by Oracle.

When we reached my stepmothers place, we were created with open arms. I ate a bunch of peanut m&m's, and called it an early night.

Monday
Rising with the sun again felt good. It reminded me getting back on the road, which I couldn't wait to do. James headed to Berkeley to meet with a friend and I headed out with my stepmom to go to work.

The work wasn't hard, but there was a lot to get done. I was helping a company move from one building to the next. They weren't quite ready to move yet, so my job was to go through and make sure random things were accessible and working in the new area. I was busy all day, and still didn't get everything done. I think I probably could've stayed another day to try and make some more money, but the road was beckoning me.

After a great dinner with my stepmom I rose back to Redwood City to try and spend some time with my dad. The plan was that James and I would be meeting up sometime after 10am and hitting the road as soon as possible. I think that would give me enough time to take care of a few errands in the morning and still have a productive day.

Miles: about 100 over 3 days

RRD: Alcatraz

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

SF!

10/21/11
Waking up in the redwoods has got to be one of the most refreshing ways to wake up that I know of. There's something truly rejuvenating about sleeping all night in the fresh air and cool canopy cover of these ancient giants. I felt ready to take on the world. I suppose the amazing dinner and night before didn't hurt either. We decided that after packing up our things we would sit among the redwoods and eat some breakfast before hitting the road. I don't know if I've mentioned it, but one of my tips for a quick road breakfasts is to fill several ziplock bags with about a cup of granola each, and then cover them with some nonfat dry milk. Then just add water when you're hungry, and you can eat it right out of the bag.

With our bellies full James as I headed toward the city. Not too far down the road we got to Fairfax, CA and settled on Peet's coffee to get our daily dose of caffeine and pastries and WiFi. Fairfax seems like a nice place to live, probably expensive, but a pleasant lifestyle. Just a 30 minute drive north and you're in a small coastal town without any WiFi, but just a 30 minute drive south and you're in the heart of SF.

From Fairfax, things got a little weird. My bike commuting app took us on an odd route, one where we ended up too far east and had to back track over some hills in order to head south to Sausalito. We eventually found a bike trail that took us to Mill Valley where we stopped to eat some lunch in a park, and then continued down the path south. Right on the edge of Sausalito lies an interesting bike shop, named Renovo, that builds hardwood framed bicycles. They are just absolutely beautiful bikes, and while we drooled over these expensive two wheeled machines I learned that the company is actually based out of Portland. I figure they must have to sell them in the money laden bay area since very few people in Portlandia are able to shell out the $3500+ for these gorgeous bikes. Anyway, if you have the time, check out the website: www.RenovoBikes.com.

In Sausalito I stopped for ice cream at Lappert's and watched a man balance rocks in seemingly impossible ways with the bay and the city as a backdrop. It was a beautiful day, and I reminisced about riding across the Golden Gate Bridge for the first time in the summer 2010. He I was now, with 800 miles behind me about to cross it again and finally enter San Francisco.

In a way, the trip to SF was a bit of a test run for me. I felt if I could make it this far, then I should be able to make it to New Orleans. I felt accomplished. Here I was, after thinking about this stretch of highway for 10 years, finally fulfilling my goal. It's funny how inspired I now feel to continue to New Orleans, and accomplish yet another goal.

The weather in SF was amazing. Sun shining bright and perfect 68F degree biking weather. While passing through the wharf we found two rear wheels, in great condition with Shimano hubs just sitting on the side of the road next to the trash. The scavenger in me decided to take them, if nothing else I could sell them on craigslist for a few bucks, and we found a way to strap them onto the back of my bike. From there James and I stopped at a pho place in Chinatown and each killed a giant bowl of soup. From there we cruised through chinatown past a live band playing some very foreign instrument, to the Embarcadero where people poured out of the clubs on this Friday night, and finally to the CalTrains station where we would be catching a train to Redwood City. The CalTrains station in SF never fails to be interesting, with drunk college kids finishing a 12-pack in the terminal mingling with homeless people who are also looking for a place offthe street to drink. I guess rules are pretty relaxed for CalTrains, where there's no problem having an open container both on the train and in the terminal. You just can't leave the terminal with your drink, gotta finish it there before walking down the street.

Eventually the train came, and it was a quick 45 minute ride to Redwood City, where We headed to my dad's place to sleep on a cushioned surface in a warm and dry environment. You know, the way most people are used to doing things.

Miles: 50

RRD: wet socks

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

Eating like kings at Point Kings

10/20/11
As my phone quacked at me, I scrambled to hit the snooze and looked into the dark morning sky with the moon still in plain sight. After another snooze or two I finally decided to get up and was surprised how fast the fog had moved in. The sky was a dark grey, the moon no longer visible, and the morning light was just beginning to shine. James and I packed up quick, postponed breakfast, and headed out. I was wondering what the day would bring, especially considering we had ridden over 80 miles the day before. I wasn't too sore, but I was definitely moving slow, and the misty morning fog wasn't any help to motivate me.

The next 15 miles were slow moving and damp and foggy. James and I (mainly me) would find any excuse to stop. We stopped to eat breakfast, to snack, to take pictures, so that James to fix a flat tire, and eventually when we made it to the small town of Jenner we stopped for coffee. The small yet interesting Cafe Aquatica seemed like the perfect place. I was surprised when they didn't offer WiFi, but soon realized that Jenner is a place where people go to get away from everything. I had a breakfast burrito which was good, but the clam chowder was to die for. Probably the best clam chowder on the coast. It was all organic, super chunky, and the broth wasn't too thick...just like grandma used to make.

While we warmed our insides with coffee and good food, the fog seemed to roll in even thicker. Eventually we got the courage to get back on our bikes and headed down the road towards Bodega Bay. We got word that there was a cafe there that offered WiFi, and about 10 miles later we found a spot that had amazing pastries, pies, coffee and WiFi. I couldn't resist a fresh fruit covered cheese Danish and James ordered the biggest piece of apple pie I've seen this side of the Mississippi. We both got connected and I undoubtedly worked on my blog while I enjoyed my delicious afternoon desert.

A retired dentist, named Tim, was working on his laptop in the cafe and soon engaged a conversation with us. He seemed to really enjoy hearing about what we were doing, and told us about his 35ft sailboat he has been working on, getting ready to sail around the world. Tim was a bit quirky, but super interesting and inspiring. He had a lust for life like that of somebody that just survived cancer and wasn't going to waste another moment. We talked with him for a good hour, and before parting ways he told us about an oyster place we had to try, Hog Island Oyster Company. James made a comment that he loves oysters, but can never afford them, and without hesitation Tim the retired dentist pulled out his wallet and gave us each $20 bucks, saying "Dinner's on me!" James and I weren't exactly comfortable with taking a stranger's money, but Tim insisted and told us he might meet us over there if he could finish his errands.

It was now past 2:30pm, the fog had cleared, the sun was out and we were excited about oysters. I called ahead to Hog Island, and found out that they closed at 5pm! It had taken us just about all morning to make it the 25 miles we had come, and now we has about 2 hours to make it another 25 miles to the oyster spot. With no time to spare we hit the road hard and fast, like a couple of cheetahs sprinting full speed to capture some dinner.

Hog Island Oyster Company is located in the little town of Marshall on Tomales Bay. The ride there was incredible and somehow we found time to take pictures of the rolling hills, beautiful farmland, amazing coastal views and still make there before 5. I have to say, riding through the Sonoma farmland was very inspiring. It was another one of those rides I feel I could do 1000 times and never get sick of it. I suppose apropos to the name, Hog Island, there were a couple of hogs parked out front of the Harley variety...so we parked our hogs next them and headed in.

Just as the woman behind the bar was closing up we arrived and ordered a dozen each and a cold one. At this hour it was shuck your own, but that's all part of the experience. Right as we finished our first oysters, Tim showed up and ordered a dozen for himself too. The oysters were really beyond great. Maybe it's because I was still so happy that we made it in time, or maybe it was because of the company I was in, or maybe it was because they didn't cost me a dime, but they were some of the best oysters I have eaten.

After the oysters Tim said, "Well, that was a great appetizer but I'm still hungry. You boys want to go get some dinner?" Was this quirky old retired dentist really offering to buy us dinner on top of oysters?!?! We couldn't believe it. Well our options were to see if the Tony's was open 2 miles down the road, head back north 7 miles to see if Nick's was still open, or head 12 miles south to one of the restaurants open in Point Reyes. We opted to continue south, and hope that the closest one was open. It wasn't, and just as the restaurant was within view, we saw Tim get back in his little convertible and drive off. Not even 1/2 a mile down the road we see him driving the other direction. As we both took our eyes off the road to see what he was doing, disaster struck!

I was riding behind James and as we both looked back at Tim for a split second, James put on his brakes and I didn't. As I turned my eyes back to the road I had just enough time to see what was inevitably about to happen to me. I braked as hard as I could and tried to swerve out of the way, but still clipped the back of James' tire which sent me flying off my bike and into the middle of the road. Luckily all those years of martial arts training proved useful in that split second as I somehow managed to shoulder roll out the accident completely unscathed. As I stood up, made sure nothing was broken, and moved my bike to the side of the road, the adrenalin began coursing through my veins and the impact of what just happened hit me hard. I was shocked and had a minor freak out moment, but after eating a small snack on the side of the road and sharing a few laughs with my new friends, I was ready to move on.

In Point Reyes (Reyes = Kings) we found Tim at a nice restaurant called the Station House Cafe. The first highlight of dinner was the savory puff pastries that they served as the bread appetizer. They were filled with egg, unsweetened and super tasty. I think we devoured at least two baskets of those before even ordering. After scanning the menu we all happened to decide on the same dish, one of specials: the house made fettuchini with butternut squash in a cream sauce covered with hazelnuts. It was truly amazing! Then to top it all off, Tim decided to order dessert: homemade pumpkin pie and a homemade bread pudding. The pumpkin pie came out with some fresh whipped cream, and the bread pudding came covered in a caramel sauce. Both were great, but I was blown away by the bread pudding with caramel sauce. It was hands down the best bread pudding I've ever had. I still can't get over it. It was truly a great meal, with great conversation, and great company. Something I'll remember for a long time.

Before parting ways, we traded contact info with Tim and he invited us on his boat should we cross paths again. I was thankful for meeting him, and he is truly a generous man. I hope to be able to pay the generosity forward someday.

As for camping, we headed a couple of miles down the road towards the Olema campground. It was dark by now but the traffic wasn't bad. At Olema we found a campground, situated next to a church, that charged $42/night for tent camping! WTF?!?! Do people actually pay that much for a designated little campground 15ft from the next spot over? We couldn't believe it and decided to bike the rest of the way to Samuel P Taylor State Park. Much to our surprise, over half of the 5 miles there was on a designated bike path. This was great news as a cyclist, and made for a wonderfully smooth and car free entrance to the park.

At the hub of the state park we found warm showers, electricity and running water. After cleaning up, shaving, and charging our phones a bit we decided to head a little further down the bike path instead of camping at the hub with everybody else. We eventually settled on a little redwood grove where we each had a hollowed out stump to ourselves to hang our tents. Falling asleep in the Redwoods was probably the best way to end an amazing day. I have to say that it was the most exciting day so far, not to mention we were now only about 30 miles from San Francisco. This is what bicycle touring is all about!

Miles: 73

RRD: Me

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

BAM!

Now you can help sponsor my ride!

I can see for miles

10/19/11
The hiker/biker area was far from empty on this foggy morning. Not only were there the four of us that rolled in after dark but there were two others that were there before us and even another that must have showed up after I was asleep. I woke as the first rays of sun peaked through the branches above, packed up my stuff quick and was ready to get on the road as soon as possible. The three others that I met were feeling a little more relaxed, and made themselves breakfast. Since I was interested I'm riding with others I figure I'd take the time to eat as well, but by 8 we were on the road.

As the fog burned off James and I chatted and laughed, but I did get to know the girls a bit as well. They were from British Columbia and it was their first time on a bicycle tour tour. They were staying in Point Arena that day, about 40 miles up the road before heading toward Napa, and I personally was hoping to make it a little farther than that. They thought that they might be in the bay area for Halloween, and I thought I may be too. Within an hour of hitting the road we arrived in Fort Bragg. James and I were interested in checking out the North Coast Brewery, but they wouldn't be open for another hour, so we decided against it. Rowan and Jess found a laundromat in town and had decided it was time for some clean riding clothes. Since James and I wanted to make some miles, the different sexes decided to part ways. James and the girls said their goodbyes, and I exchanged contact info with them just in case we happened to be in the bay area at the same time.

As we continued south down the coast, James and I talked and rode and it soon became obvious that James and I had a lot in common, with sense of humor being one of those things. As we laughed our way to the top of the hills I learned a lot about my new riding buddy. He had been touring since May, in the French Alps. After working s winter there at a ski resort, he set out on a 3000 mile tour across France. For this last leg of his journey he was traveling south from Bellingham, WA to Los Angeles, CA so that he could get his visa to go back for the upcoming ski season. James and I are of a similar stature and age, but he is a beast on his bicycle. He shoots ahead of me on every uphill, which keeps me motivated to push harder, and just cuts around the tight downhill curves like somebody racing a motorcycle. I guess that's what 3000 miles in the Alps and Pyrenees mountains will do to a person.

After almost 45 minutes we entered the small town of Mendocino. Mendocino is a cute place, and I got a good feeling from it. James and I stopped at a small cafe so that we could charge our phones, I could work on the blog and he could make an international call using Skype. The coffee was good and the macaroons were to die for at Moody's Organic Coffee Bar. A local patron asked us about our individual tours, as they tend to do, and also informed us of a little health food store around the corner. At Corners of the Mouth health foods I was able to stock up on trail mix, honey, and dried apricots. It was a cool little market that was converted from an old church. Healthy eating is definitely a religion I can believe in.

The rest of the day James and I just rode and rode and rode...and laughed. We passed some beautiful areas of the coastline where bright pink and purple flowers would magically appear along the more earth-toned hillsides. We were sure to stop and take pictures, snack and enjoy the sights. James definitely has the gift of gab, so I asked a lot of questions about his travels and picked his brain for tips on bicycle touring. The chatting really makes the hills easier and the time go by fast. We were just passing through one town after the next: Albion, Elk, Manchester, Point Arena, Gallaway, Anchor Bay, and before we knew it Gualala.

The sun was just setting, we had made it 70 miles and feeling very accomplished. We stopped at a local market and got some snacks and something to drink and found a small spot on the coast to sit as we recounted our day and watched the sun disappear. After riding up a hill off of highway 1, only to discover that the campground was closed for the winter we weighed our options. If we were going to continue on down the road, we would need some nourishment. A hole-in-the-wall pizza place called Upper Crust Pizzeria ended up being one of those local gems that you're thrilled to stumble upon. We split a medium chicken pesto, which was amazing, but really could've eaten a whole large between the two of us. Pizza is a great high energy food for bicycle touring and James joked that the only thing that could get between the bond that cyclists share is a slice of pepperoni pizza.

Now energized, we decided to continue on in the dark. The night was immaculate. No clouds or fog or light pollution, and just a billion stars in the night sky as far as the eye could see. The roads were quiet also and I once again was feeling pretty comfortable riding so late. This had already been my longest day so far, and here I was pushing forward. It's funny though, I was still feeling strong. Having the company of somebody who had been doing this for a while really helped keep my spirits and stamina up. As we entered Salt Point State Park, 13 miles down the road, we were having a difficult time reading the signs...and I think the rest of the ride that day was catching up with us. I was hitting a wall. We took a small break to marvel in the night sky and rest our legs, and I felt as if I could've fallen asleep right in the grass where I lay off the side of the road.

About a mile up the road we finally found a campground that was open. There were no showers, but there was drinkable water. We set up camp ad minimally as possible, in fact James didn't even use a tent and just slept under the picnic table. As I lay in my hammock in tent position, I stared again into the night sky and was proud of making it 84 miles that day. The last thing I remember was watching a shooting star fly across the sky, then I closed my eyes as I wanted that to be the last thing I saw before falling asleep.

Miles: 84

RRD: a tarp

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d

The Shoreline Highway

10/18/11
At 8am I rolled out of bed. I wanted to make it about 64 miles today and I also wanted to clean and lube my bike before I hit the road...so I had to get moving. In the process of cleaning I made the mistake of fooling with the tension of my spokes and before I knew it my wheel was becoming less and less true. I ended up having to spend about 30 extra minutes fixing my mistake, and ended with the feeling that I still didn't know what I was doing. After washing up and eating breakfast I wasn't actually ready to go until about 11am.

Right outside the Motel I encountered another cyclist from Portland. He was an interesting young fellow named Won Young. I think he said he was 22, had been practicing Taekwondo all his life and was now cycling to no place in particular without any money and few possessions. His overall philosophy at his young age was about doing more with less. He eloquently, and I actually had a very nice conversation with him. He appeared to be wiser than his age in some ways. He pointed out that with my bike and setup, I looked like somebody with money. I guess that would make me a mark in a town like Garberville. Although his suggestion to get rid of most of my stuff and dirty up a bit was appreciated, I just didn't feel like that was the way I wanted to cycle across America. I already feel like I'm walking a fine line between homeless and vagabond. I guess another way to view it is as an adventurer. Well whatever I am, I'd like to try to be comfortable, which for me means staying as clean as possible as I weave in and out of these towns and social structures. What kind of cyclic tourist would you like to be?

I didn't really feel like I had climbed out of the hole that is Garberville until I was about 8 miles outside of the city. Despite the feeling, the ride was beautiful as the roads I was on continued to follow the Eel River. I stopped for lunch about 15 miles out on the side of a road that I hadn't seen any cars on the whole ride. As I ate a motorcycle passed by, but other than me on my bike that was the only other human I saw for about an hour.

As I rolled passed the town of Leggett, I saw a sign that indicated there would be no services for about 28 miles so I decided to turn around. It looked as if the market was closed for the winter, so I stopped at the overpriced gas station to fill up on water and get some snacks. I took about a 30 minute rest as I fueled up for the climb ahead of me. I had been going up an down over hills the whole day, but overall I had gradually climbed about 600ft. I could see from my map that I had about 5 miles of straight climbing ahead me as I would eventually reach about 1800ft elevation...which would be the highest part of my trip thus far.

The climb wasn't too bad, but I could tell the 30 miles that I had already come were catching up with me and I was slowing down. Once over the first hill, I dropped about 1500ft and it was a blast cruising around all the switchbacks at 30mph. At the bottom of that hill I reached another 500ft ascent reaching the coast, and it was slow coming. I was at about 45 miles for the day and moving slower and slower.

As soon as I could hear the ocean I was feeling good. It was completely overcast, so much so that I could hardly see the water. As I headed a few miles down the coast I passed a couple of primitive looking campgrounds, which were only $3 for hikers/bikers. I thought if nothing else I could come back for those, but I wanted to make it to the town of Westport to fill up on water and put something warm in my belly as it was getting cold.

I pulled up to a small one pump gas station with a little store and notice three touring bicycles parked out front. As I walked up the stairs toward the store, I saw three tired faces sitting on the porch looking like they were either waiting for food or the energy to move again. I said hi, but was focused on finding some food and getting some water. After ordering a salmon/bagel sandwich, I walked back out to see how the other tourists were doing. The two girls, Rowan and Jess, had come down from Vancouver, BC and had met the guy, James, in Astoria and had been riding together for the past 10 days. They would be parting ways the following day as the girls were planning to head toward Napa, and James continued down the coast. I couldn't believe it, but here it was 7pm, dark and foggy, and they were planning to ride on about 13miles down the road to MacKerricher State Park. I kind of invited myself along, because I figured it would be safer riding with a group of people with lights than it would be riding alone. They seemed happy to have me and after I finished my sandwich and they finished their pizza, we were off.

Traffic was extremely slow that night, much to our liking, and as James and I led the pack we would stop occasionally so that everybody was riding together. We got to camp around 9pm and I think we were all beat. I had made it to where I wanted to that day, even after leaving past noon, thanks to the bicycle friends I had made at the market. None of us really talked much at camp that night. I headed straight for the warm shower after setting up my hammock cocoon, and by the time I retuned to camp everybody was in their tents and probably fast asleep. I headed straight for bed too, but looked forward to talking to the cyclists more in the morning.

Miles: 64

RRD: A cooler lid

-D
http://www.trackmytour.com/b5k7d